{"product_id":"hex-ukulele-fully-printable-soprano","title":"Hex ukulele - fully printable soprano","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe content is too long and has been truncated\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMy previous design - \u003ca target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer ugc\" href=\"https:\/\/www.printables.com\/model\/395317\"\u003eheart shaped ukulele\u003c\/a\u003e is working great and i love it's sound. So i decided to make another ukulele project: ukulele shaped ukulele, inspired by that design. No more hearts. This design is an attempt to join some classical ukulele forms with some hexagon details. \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe goals are pretty much the same:\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eCan be 3d printed on \u003cstrong\u003estandard printer\u003c\/strong\u003e (this time all parts fits on 215x215 bed or 210x240)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eNo additional parts\u003c\/strong\u003e (Nothing except string is required - no tuning pegs, bridges, bolts, nuts etc., \u003cstrong\u003eeverything is 3d printed\u003c\/strong\u003e (you can add carbon fiber strips but it is optional)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eNo glue\u003c\/strong\u003e - all parts can be assembled and disassembled with 3d printed bolts and joints. This is great for future improvements and upgrades. You can always use some glue for rigidity, but it is not necessary.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eNo supports needed -\u003c\/strong\u003e all parts are designed to be printed without supports (just print parts, assemble put the strings on, tune it and play).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eNice shape\u003c\/strong\u003e - No more hearts - just classical shape ukulele and some hexagon style\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFull feature\u003c\/strong\u003e 4-string ukulele - scale length is 350mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis one is a bit more challenging. You have \u003cstrong\u003emulticolor \u003c\/strong\u003eprinting (on single nozzle printer), weird \u003cstrong\u003eoverhangs \u003c\/strong\u003eand a bit of \u003cstrong\u003ebridging\u003c\/strong\u003e. But don't worry. Everything is designed to be printed as easy as possible.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDoes it work? You can hear and see all three of my 3d printed ukuleles in action on the video below:\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cfigure class=\"media\"\u003e\u003coembed url=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/wQ_X2H8o2V4\"\u003e\u003c\/oembed\u003e\u003c\/figure\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eBOM:\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eabout 400g of PLA\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eabout 50 of PETG (can also be PLA)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eone pack of soprano ukulele strings (I love Aquila Red Series - both Low and High G)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e(optionally) 2 pieces of carbon fiber strips 2x8mm (about 37 cm length each)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\u003ch4\u003eGeneral\u003c\/h4\u003e\u003cp\u003eAll parts can be printed \u003cstrong\u003ewithout support\u003c\/strong\u003e. All parts can be printed with\u003cstrong\u003e 0.4 or 0.6 nozzle\u003c\/strong\u003e. All parts can be \u003cstrong\u003eprinted on a regular 220x220\u003c\/strong\u003e printer. I have printed mine with PLA (except internal-rod and other small threaded parts - which for better layer adhesion I've printed with PETG). PETG can be to soft for neck and body, but you can give it a try - especially if You plan to use carbon fiber strips. For pegs and dots (small screw) You can add brim to ensure it stays on the bed.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eOrientation\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eOrient all the parts with largest flat side on the bed (all files should be already oriented for printing).\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eUkulele version 1.2 info\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eI started improving my design using feedback from users. It's generally same ukulele but with some small improvements and tweaks. I left files from 1st version intact just in case someone need them or want to compare which version is better. The new ukulele should look same (except sound holes),  sound the same (quality is still great, but my electroacoustic version is a bit quieter. I'm still not sure why) - but everything is just slightly adjusted. Tolerances are better, internal construction is reduced. Also there is now possibility to print electroacoustic version. All improvements are mentioned in the part list below. For the electroacoustic version you have to get piezo preamp\/tuner set similar to this:\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cfigure class=\"image image_resized\" style=\"width: 50%\"\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/makerworld.bblmw.com\/makerworld\/model\/DSM00000001597867\/design\/2025-07-03_slrr1j40npqd.png\"\u003e\u003c\/figure\u003e\u003ch3\u003ePrinting instruction and tips:\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003ch4\u003eGeneral information\u003c\/h4\u003e\u003cp\u003eIf your printer and filament is not calibrated well there can be problem with threaded parts that needs to be printed precisely. But do not fear. Just print big parts (neck, neck-middle and body) and then small ones (dots, internal-rod, gears and pegs. If you're lucky - everything will fit together. If not - just reprint those smaller parts with XY Size compensation (+\/- 0.1 or less should be enough). As a result the internal-rod should fit pretty tight. dots should fit with small friction and gears and pegs - with little or no friction (but still tight). If You print pegs\/gears with PLA - consider adding some grease or PTFE Lube - to make sure they don't fuse from the friction.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch4\u003eStart with bigger parts:\u003c\/h4\u003e\u003cfigure class=\"table\"\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd style=\"text-align: center; width: 6em\" rowspan=\"2\"\u003e\u003cimg class=\"image_resized\" style=\"width: 75%\" src=\"https:\/\/makerworld.bblmw.com\/makerworld\/model\/DSM00000001597867\/design\/b8bbebce-3c46-4c67-921d-c81a274ec8c0.png\"\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eneck-middle.stl\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003ctd\u003estart with this piece to check if everything is ok and carbon strips fits (if you plan to use them). Version \u003cstrong\u003e1.2 \u003c\/strong\u003econtains several versions of this part - the ends of this part are skewed by a fraction of degree to compensate string tension. Try \u003cstrong\u003e0.2\u003c\/strong\u003e or \u003cstrong\u003e0.3 \u003c\/strong\u003eat the beginning - if you find that the compensation is too strong or too weak - reprint it . probably you don't need any compensation when using carbon strips. Also the slot for carbon strips is slightly bigger\u003c\/td\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003c\/figure\u003e\u003cfigure class=\"table\"\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd style=\"text-align: center; width: 6em\" rowspan=\"2\"\u003e\u003cimg class=\"image_resized\" style=\"width: 75%\" src=\"https:\/\/makerworld.bblmw.com\/makerworld\/model\/DSM00000001597867\/design\/9286c75d-8bf1-4349-9b46-a51c17e3e5a4.png\"\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eneck.stl\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003ctd\u003ejust print it flat on the bed. You can use variable layer height to make the surface smoother. Version \u003cstrong\u003e1.2\u003c\/strong\u003e has corrected peg holes placement so gears are aligned with neck face and stay in place better. Slot for carbon strips is slightly bigger. threaded holes for dots ale 1mm longer\u003c\/td\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003c\/figure\u003e\u003cfigure class=\"table\"\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd style=\"text-align: center; width: 6em\" rowspan=\"2\"\u003e\u003cimg class=\"image_resized\" style=\"width: 75%\" src=\"https:\/\/makerworld.bblmw.com\/makerworld\/model\/DSM00000001597867\/design\/f2622123-1ee7-4add-aae7-eecd0d8eb7ac.png\"\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ebody.stl\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMulticolor for single nozzle\/extruder:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor \u003cstrong\u003emulticolor body\u003c\/strong\u003e: Open stl in Prusa slicer. Split to objects, Merge all the hexagon parts into one object (There is a \u003ca target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer ugc\" href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=uUpgzBMGeU8\"\u003evideo \u003c\/a\u003ein my \u003ca target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer ugc\" href=\"https:\/\/www.printables.com\/model\/484175-hex-drum\"\u003ehex drum\u003c\/a\u003e project showing how to do this operation). Set z-hop to 0.4mm or more. Print hexagon parts first and then print rest of the body (turn off supports). You can also join two gcode files with M600 command between to ensure exactly same homing position (you have to remove some parts of g-code from both files).\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWARNING!!!\u003c\/strong\u003e: If You have mesh bed leveling at the beginning of every print You have to figure out how to turn this off for the second print (merging gcode files method should be ok if you remove homing procedure from second print). In any case please stay and watch the print during color change to make sure there are no serious collisions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt is also good idea to do research on the internet. There are several methods to achieve same result. You have to figure out what is best for your 3d Printer. Here are some links to start with:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer ugc\" href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=9F2uaDW0W4c\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=9F2uaDW0W4c\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003ca target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer ugc\" href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=PQRaSvQdVFY\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=PQRaSvQdVFY\u003c\/a\u003e - this one works great for my new MK4\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\u003ca target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer ugc\" href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=D7FiT5VqLSg\"\u003ehttps:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=D7FiT5VqLSg\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYou can also print it with multicolor 3d printer or just \u003cstrong\u003eas single color part\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #E14747\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOrca slicer\/Bambu studio\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #E14747\"\u003eBe careful - some versions of Bambu studio and Orca slicer tend to leave a gap between the hexagons and main body - please check this before printing - this can be fixed by manipulating layer height.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOther hints:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you want to preserve nice back curvature you can use \u003ci\u003eVariable Layer Height \u003c\/i\u003e- but remember to define \u003ci\u003eMinimum Shell Thickness\u003c\/i\u003e in mm (even 5 top layers is pretty thin when layer height is 0.07mm.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eVersion \u003cstrong\u003e1.2\u003c\/strong\u003e has (apart from slightly bigger carbon strip slots) less construction elements inside. It comes with two flavours acoustic and electroacoustic (\u003cstrong\u003ebody_e.stl\u003c\/strong\u003e) and because of this, \u003cstrong\u003esound holes\u003c\/strong\u003e had to be \u003cstrong\u003erearranged\u003c\/strong\u003e. If you want ukulele that looks exactly like on the pictures use previous version.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor \u003cstrong\u003eCura users\u003c\/strong\u003e there are 3mf files in Stuff folder.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/td\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003c\/figure\u003e\u003ch4\u003eNow it's time to print smaller threaded parts:\u003c\/h4\u003e\u003cfigure class=\"table\"\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd style=\"text-align: center; width: 6em\" rowspan=\"2\"\u003e\u003cimg class=\"image_resized\" style=\"width: 75%\" src=\"https:\/\/makerworld.bblmw.com\/makerworld\/model\/DSM00000001597867\/design\/de6781bb-e64e-4c4f-bc26-495239af6592.png\"\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003einternal-rod.stl\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003ctd\u003eI recommend to print this in PETG. Two PLA parts can fuse together on threads due to friction and low melting temperature. Version \u003cstrong\u003e1.2 \u003c\/strong\u003ehas just some tiny adjustments with tolerances.\u003c\/td\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003c\/figure\u003e\u003cfigure class=\"table\"\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd style=\"text-align: center; width: 6em\" rowspan=\"2\"\u003e\u003cimg class=\"image_resized\" style=\"width: 75%\" src=\"https:\/\/makerworld.bblmw.com\/makerworld\/model\/DSM00000001597867\/design\/7f6d6300-1a18-4c47-959b-bf04455720fb.png\"\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003edot7.stl, dot.stl\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003ctd\u003eYou need 6 of these, but they ar fragile, so it's nice to have couple of spares. These are also better when printed in PETG. Version \u003cstrong\u003e1.2 \u003c\/strong\u003ehas improved tolerances and extended thread length to 8mm.\u003c\/td\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003c\/figure\u003e\u003cfigure class=\"table\"\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd style=\"text-align: center; width: 6em\" rowspan=\"2\"\u003e\u003cimg class=\"image_resized\" style=\"width: 75%\" src=\"https:\/\/makerworld.bblmw.com\/makerworld\/model\/DSM00000001597867\/design\/4f3304e6-d16b-4944-8990-739e3c60b56d.png\"\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ebridge_bolt.stl\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003ctd\u003eYou need 3 of these, You can print four and use one as a tap to clean threads in Body part. These are also better when printed in PETG. Version \u003cstrong\u003e1.2 \u003c\/strong\u003ehas looser tolerances\u003c\/td\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003c\/figure\u003e\u003ch4\u003eTuning system:\u003c\/h4\u003e\u003cfigure class=\"table\"\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd style=\"text-align: center; width: 6em\" rowspan=\"2\"\u003e\u003cimg class=\"image_resized\" style=\"width: 75%\" src=\"https:\/\/makerworld.bblmw.com\/makerworld\/model\/DSM00000001597867\/design\/f58f4eee-1f5a-43e1-a561-9b4ce57f7290.png\"\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003epeg.stl\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003epegx4.stl\u003c\/strong\u003e\n\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003ctd\u003eYou can print 4 pieces of single peg.stl, but I recommend printing pegx4.stl, because the connections between pegs reduce the chance of failure (these are pretty easy to be knocked of front bed by the print head). I think it's better when printed with PETG, but I've printed mine with PLA and they works great. Remember that pegs stays in place only because string tension so before winding they are loose. Version \u003cstrong\u003e1.2 \u003c\/strong\u003ehas tighter tolerances (pegs are a bit thicker).\u003cbr\u003eSome users have problems with printing those pegs. For them there are pegs designed for easy print with larger bed contact surface. You can find them in “Stuff” folder in \u003ci\u003efailureproof-peg.stl\u003c\/i\u003e file.  \u003c\/td\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003c\/figure\u003e\u003cfigure class=\"table\"\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd style=\"text-align: center; width: 6em\" rowspan=\"2\"\u003e\u003cimg class=\"image_resized\" style=\"width: 75%\" src=\"https:\/\/makerworld.bblmw.com\/makerworld\/model\/DSM00000001597867\/design\/d68e349b-acba-4d13-8324-844a8fc393dd.png\"\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003egear_G.stl gear_C.stl gear_E.stl gear_A.stl gear_blank.stl\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003ctd\u003eYou need 4 Gears. If you plan to use standard GCEA tuning you can use version with string names (add color change at 19.5mm for different color of letters). Version \u003cstrong\u003e1.2 \u003c\/strong\u003ehas tighter tolerances, redesigned shape for better grip and polished letters. This is a bit taller so color change is at 20.0mm. I've also added blank gear\u003c\/td\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003c\/figure\u003e\u003cfigure class=\"table\"\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd style=\"text-align: center; width: 6em\" rowspan=\"2\"\u003e\u003cimg class=\"image_resized\" style=\"width: 75%\" src=\"https:\/\/makerworld.bblmw.com\/makerworld\/model\/DSM00000001597867\/design\/b812ccce-f919-4059-ae92-8fecda94f82d.png\"\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003egear_screw.stl\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003ctd\u003eThis is a screw that secures the string at the bottom of the gear - so you need four of them. This also is best to be printed with PETG for good layer adhesion. Version \u003cstrong\u003e1.2 \u003c\/strong\u003ehas improved tolerances.\u003c\/td\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003c\/figure\u003e\u003ch4\u003eAn most important parts for sound:\u003c\/h4\u003e\u003cfigure class=\"table\"\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd style=\"text-align: center; width: 6em\" rowspan=\"2\"\u003e\u003cimg class=\"image_resized\" style=\"width: 75%\" src=\"https:\/\/makerworld.bblmw.com\/makerworld\/model\/DSM00000001597867\/design\/1e0fcf17-aa88-4ccc-94d4-b6b07d11fb76.png\"\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003efretboard.stl\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003ctd\u003ePrint it flat on bed. Add color change at 3.5mm for different color of frets.  Version \u003cstrong\u003e1.2 \u003c\/strong\u003ehas improved grooves in nut and slightly shorter frets. The slots in the nuts are pretty thin. If your strings don't fall deep into grooves - use file or knife to widen the gaps. Also check “zero fret” version in “Stuff” folder - this keeps tuning better for me.\u003c\/td\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003c\/figure\u003e\u003cfigure class=\"table\" style=\"width: 100%\"\u003e\u003ctable class=\"ck-table-resized\"\u003e\n\u003ccolgroup\u003e\n\u003ccol\u003e\n\u003ccol\u003e\n\u003c\/colgroup\u003e\n\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd style=\"text-align: center; width: 6em\" rowspan=\"2\"\u003e\u003cimg class=\"image_resized\" style=\"width: 75%\" src=\"https:\/\/makerworld.bblmw.com\/makerworld\/model\/DSM00000001597867\/design\/c1924d2d-a711-4288-9d82-d5ccd8cf905e.png\"\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ebridge.stl\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003ctd\u003ePrint it flat on the bed.  Version \u003cstrong\u003e1.2 \u003c\/strong\u003ehas significantly higher bridge. \u003c\/td\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\u003c\/figure\u003e\u003cfigure class=\"table\"\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd style=\"text-align: center; width: 6em\" rowspan=\"2\"\u003e\u003cimg class=\"image_resized\" style=\"width: 75%\" src=\"https:\/\/makerworld.bblmw.com\/makerworld\/model\/DSM00000001597867\/design\/5ba309ed-4750-4ce9-808f-0a8cffd3e97d.png\"\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003esaddle.stl\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003ctd\u003ethere are two versions - for lowG and standard tuning. The idea is to compensate string thickness (like many saddles do). Print it wyth some hard material because strings will put some force on it. Version \u003cstrong\u003e1.2 \u003c\/strong\u003ehas redesigned shape that should be easier to print\u003c\/td\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003c\/figure\u003e\u003ch4\u003eOptional\u003c\/h4\u003e\u003cfigure class=\"table\"\u003e\u003ctable\u003e\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd style=\"text-align: center; width: 6em\" rowspan=\"2\"\u003e\u003cimg class=\"image_resized\" style=\"width: 75%\" src=\"https:\/\/makerworld.bblmw.com\/makerworld\/model\/DSM00000001597867\/design\/3f4f8a12-b7f9-44d7-ad87-b033cffe2434.png\"\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003etensioning-strips.stl\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003ctd\u003eIf you don't plan to use real carbon fiber strips i highly recommend using these. Print this with PLA or other stiff material. Use it as a replacement of carbon strips. When putting ukulele together place those strips bended backwards so the strips tension works against string tension.\u003c\/td\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\u003c\/table\u003e\u003c\/figure\u003e\u003ch4\u003eAssembly steps:\u003c\/h4\u003e\u003cp\u003eHere two videos of how to assembly the ukulele. First is the assembly of the electroacoustic hex ukulele. This was released recently - and all the users so far used the previous video of heart ukulele assembly, which can explain certain things better. the assembly of both ukulele is pretty much the same, but \u003cstrong\u003einternal-rod\u003c\/strong\u003e is not ideally symmetrical - so do three turns only in body part - and after that attach neck. Also now strings are secured with screws. \u003ci\u003eText description below the videos.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cfigure class=\"media\"\u003e\u003coembed url=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/4SwdeDRAcrQ\"\u003e\u003c\/oembed\u003e\u003c\/figure\u003e\u003col\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTake \u003cstrong\u003eneck\u003c\/strong\u003e. Insert two strips (printed, carbon fiber or no strips at all)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTake \u003cstrong\u003ebody \u003c\/strong\u003eand insert \u003cstrong\u003einternal rod\u003c\/strong\u003e and screw in for two or three turns\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eadd \u003cstrong\u003eneck-middle\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eneck \u003c\/strong\u003ewith optional strips\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eUsing small allen key start turning \u003cstrong\u003einternal rod\u003c\/strong\u003e through the hole in \u003cstrong\u003eneck-middle \u003c\/strong\u003epart\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWhen connection is tight add \u003cstrong\u003efretboard \u003c\/strong\u003eand screw it with \u003cstrong\u003edots\u003c\/strong\u003e (use small flat screwdriver - do not overtight).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eUse \u003cstrong\u003ebridge-bolts \u003c\/strong\u003eto connect \u003cstrong\u003ebridge \u003c\/strong\u003eto the \u003cstrong\u003ebody\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eInsert the \u003cstrong\u003esaddle\u003c\/strong\u003e to the bridge (should fit tight)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003etime to add the strings - make knot on one end of the string (I use the \u003ci\u003eFigure 8.\u003c\/i\u003e knot)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003ePut this end in proper gap on the string\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003elead string through the hole in head and then through the \u003cstrong\u003egear\u003c\/strong\u003e (thinner end first)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSecure the end of the string with the \u003cstrong\u003egear-screw\u003c\/strong\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eplace the gear in proper hole in the head\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003esecure the gear with a peg and start turning the peg (keep the string tensioned)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eafter a couple of gear turns, the string should be tensioned\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRepeat these steps for three other strings\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eThat's all - You have a 3D printed ukulele.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ol\u003e\u003cp\u003eKeep in mind that the strings \u003cstrong\u003ewill get out of tune\u003c\/strong\u003e quickly at the beginning. Be patient and tune your ukulele many times and eventually it will stay in tune for longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eHere is a video showing how to attach the string with this version of the tuning mechanism:\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cfigure class=\"media\"\u003e\u003coembed url=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/8ek6oPaL1B0\"\u003e\u003c\/oembed\u003e\u003c\/figure\u003e\u003cp\u003eDesign by Tomek on MakerWorld (license: BY).\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Mymadmanlab","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":67369384050992,"sku":null,"price":41.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0987\/0809\/5280\/files\/0_d070a44e-972a-480f-bc8a-40dc7bba52e0.jpg?v=1784061788","url":"https:\/\/mymadmanlab.com\/products\/hex-ukulele-fully-printable-soprano","provider":"Mymadmanlab.com","version":"1.0","type":"link"}