{"product_id":"mister-fgpa-case-with-tapto-slot-and-drive-tray","title":"MiSTer FGPA Case with TapTo Slot and Drive Tray","description":"\u003cp\u003eA variation of this\u003ca target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/makerworld.com\/en\/models\/595342#profileId-517250\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\"\u003e MiSTer FPGA case\u003c\/a\u003e with the added feature of an internal drive tray and also a top modified for \u003ca target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/misteraddons.com\/products\/mister-fpga-io-analog-pro\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\"\u003eI\/O Analog Pro board\u003c\/a\u003e.  The motivation was 1) I wanted to add an internal hard drive.  2) I wanted to eliminate the USB cable “pig tail” for the TapTo.  I also needed the case to fit the I\/O Analog Pro board.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eIf you don't have an I\/O Analog Pro board,  you can just use the bottom shell along with the top piece that matches your I\/O board, nothing has changed in the interface between the bottom and the top piece.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNote\u003c\/strong\u003e: This case will\u003cstrong\u003e NOT \u003c\/strong\u003ework with the Taki Mister Pi bundle (without a remix) because the distance between the DE-10 and the USB board is different as are the port positions (slightly).  The IO board for the top shell is also different than the Mister Pi IO board. \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe bottom piece was changed in the following way:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAdded a small tray to hold an NVME 2230 drive.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAdded two USB cutouts for U-Shaped brackets.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRemoved rear cable hole for TapTo device  since both the drive and TapTo use USB U-Shaped brackets. \u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe top piece was changed in the following ways to fit I\/O Analog Pro board:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRemoved secondary microSD cutout.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAdded USB-C power cutout.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAdded Saturn AV Port cutout.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAdded ADC\/Mini Toslink cutout.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eEnlarged side cutout to accommodate the SOG switch placement.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAdjusted screw shafts height (the existing ones were too tall for the new board and prevented closure).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\u003ch3\u003eAdditional Hardware \u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003e2x \u003ca target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/gp\/product\/B0BN9P3FVX\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\"\u003eUSB U-Shape Connector\u003c\/a\u003e - needed to connect the drive and the TapTo.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003ca target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/gp\/product\/B0CP85BQKV\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\"\u003eNVME Enclosure\u003c\/a\u003e - needed for the M.2 hard drive.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003ca target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/gp\/product\/B0D5GNQ6JB\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\"\u003eUSB cable\u003c\/a\u003e-  needs to be 1) short 2) very flexible 3) slim connector (right-angle probably best).  It doesn't need to be heavy duty for power or data, just small and flexible.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e8x M3 14+6mm female-to-male standoffs: probably came with your DE-10 Nano.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e4x M3 15+6mm female to male standoffs:  easy to \u003ca target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/gp\/product\/B0B3Y6WF2Y\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\"\u003esource on Amazon\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e4x M3 20mm screws: I used black hex screws because they blend in with the top cover.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eI found it easiest to assemble from the bottom up in the following order:\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e15+6mm standoffs\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eUSB board\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e14+6mm standoffs\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDE-10 board\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e14+6mm standoffs\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eNow before doing anything, plug in IO board, the drive, and the TapTo device and test your whole MiSTer stack before putting it in the case just to verify everything works.  Put the TapTo device in the bottom shell and connect the USB cable.  Insert a card into the slot to verify the TapTo device is close enough in its position in the case to read correctly.   Some TapTo devices need to be very close to the card, and if your device is a bare board, you might need to raise it up slightly (silicon feet that you may want to use for the bottom of the shell could work here).\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eOnce everything is functional, you're ready to assemble the case.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eTake an M3 standoff or screw and make sure the screw shafts in the bottom shell are clear of any obstructions so the standoffs will insert cleanly.  \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThread the USB cable under the card cage and out thru the hole opposite the drive tray.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cfigure class=\"image image_resized\" style=\"width: 20.18%\"\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/makerworld.bblmw.com\/makerworld\/model\/DSM00000000846344\/design\/2024-12-03_e684dcaf66c09.jpg\"\u003e\u003c\/figure\u003e\u003cp\u003ePut the blocker print over the card cage and secure it with some Build-Tack (it's secure but can be removed cleanly unlike super glue)\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003ePut the drive on the tray. Push a card into the slot to verify the blocker is aligned properly and not blocking the slot.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cfigure class=\"image image_resized\" style=\"width: 42.37%\"\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/makerworld.bblmw.com\/makerworld\/model\/DSM00000000846344\/design\/2024-12-03_7e840cbcf305d.jpg\"\u003e\u003c\/figure\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eUnplug the IO Board from the stack.  I find it's easier to insert the stack into the shell with the IO board off.  Take the remaining MiSTer stack (USB and DE-10 board) and insert it into the bottom shell.  It's a tight fit and might require some finesse.  Be careful to put the force on the standoff shafts instead of flexing the circuit boards.  Once everything is lined up (the ports match the cutouts) you're ready to finish with the top piece.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003ePlug in the IO board (be careful to line up the pins with the proper connectors- it's easy to be off by one row).  Give the interface of the IO board with the DE-10 a close visual inspection.  Make sure there are no bent or misaligned pins.  This is the one part you want to spend a little extra time before closing up the case.  Connect the U-Shape connectors on the sides.  Be careful with the drive connector to make sure it's aligned properly and sitting squarely before pushing it in.  Once more, before putting on the top shell on, power up the stack and verify everything is connected and working.  Test the TapTo and hard drive.  If everything is working, then put on the top shell and use the M3 20mm screws to secure the top.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDesign by TBone_427120 on MakerWorld (license: BY-SA).\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Mymadmanlab","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":67417286803760,"sku":"MW-846344","price":21.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0987\/0809\/5280\/files\/0_a5b7444b-2d38-4efd-b172-b36a606610ba.png?v=1785439568","url":"https:\/\/mymadmanlab.com\/products\/mister-fgpa-case-with-tapto-slot-and-drive-tray","provider":"Mymadmanlab.com","version":"1.0","type":"link"}