{"product_id":"snapmaker-u1-slant-flap-hinged-top-cover","title":"Snapmaker U1 Slant-Flap Hinged Top Cover","description":"\u003cp\u003e16.03.26\u003cbr\u003eUploaded a 2-color design for the U1. The 3mf file is in the STL\/CAD downloads “Snapmaker U1 Side Windows colored U1 3mf”. Sliced in Orca!\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e01.02.26\u003cbr\u003eUploaded a 2-color design. You find also the 3mf file for the U1 in the STL\/CAD downloads “Snapmaker U1 Top Cover Coloriert U1 3mf”\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e* Uploaded the back frame parts with windows. You need two \u003cu\u003esquare\u003c\/u\u003e acrylics with 252 x 166 x 3 mm. You find the 3mf file for the U1 in the STL\/CAD downloads “Snapmaker U1 Top Cover mit Seitenfenstern U1 3mf” *\u003cbr\u003e\u003cimg class=\"image_resized\" style=\"width: 48.65%\" src=\"https:\/\/makerworld.bblmw.com\/makerworld\/model\/DSM00000002205021\/design\/7921e33ab58c9ad4.jpg\"\u003e \u003cbr\u003eThe bevel overlaps - the acrylic window is square!\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e* Uploaded a glass frame for 12 x 12 inch panels (3 mm thick). You find it in the STL\/CAD downloads “Snapmaker U1 Top Cover for 12inch glass 3mf for U1” *\u003cbr\u003e* Added a top left and right cover with a ventilation slider. You find the 3mf file for U1 in the STL\/CAD downloads “Top Ventilated Cover for U1” \u003cbr\u003eThis model is a remix and cool\u003ci\u003e(ing) 😉 \u003c\/i\u003eupgrade from Andrew Blum - Thank you Andrew! *\u003cbr\u003e* Also uploaded a Bambu 3mf for the 300x300 glass frame * \u003cbr\u003e* Added a glass frame for 300x300 mm acrylics (3 mm thickness). Uploaded under STL\/CAD downloads (Snapmaker U1 Top Cover Glass Frame 300x300) *\u003cbr\u003e* If you want to print on the U1, download the correct 3mf file: Choose under STL\/CAD download the file “Snapmaker U1 Top Cover SnapOrca3mf” *\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e* Don´t use matte PLA for the support, as this could adheir stronger to PETG than basic PLA *\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e* The acrylic glass is square! Only the glass frame has on top two rounded corners! *\u003cbr\u003e* I added some info\/helping tips for removing the support in the recess of the glass frame *\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eThis top cover for the Snapmaker U1 has a moveable front flap which will be hold in two different positions. Both to have an easy access from the top front of the printer to the toolheads and print plate. At the back bottom left and right are small inlets with inner guidings to the top - for a LED strip for example. The guide has some small holes for cable ties if needed. And there is also a hole for the 6-pin cable in the bottom middle.\u003cbr\u003eThe top cover height is on the highest point 305 mm and is 510 mm in depth.\u003cbr\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe model is uploaded as a remix because I used the opening idea mechanism from designer Mallasalla. I only used the mechanism for the top cover as a template and completely redrawn it myself. Therefore, the:\u003cbr\u003e- geometry of the parts is different (length, width, height, edges, rounded corners, drill holes, etc.)\u003cbr\u003e- cause of it´s size it is split in two parts and therefore has a connection point\u003cbr\u003e- slightly different bend for the correct tension\u003cbr\u003eThe whole top cover body\/frame and flap is fully my own design.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003eIf you want to print this model on the Snapmaker U1, you need to download the 3mf file from the STL\/CAD Download menu, named: \u003cstrong\u003eSnapmaker U1 Top Cover SnapOrca3mf\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003ePrint the top cover with PETG or a even higher heat resistant filament (ASA, ABS..). PLA is not recommended, because it could deform. Filament with carbon or glass fiber is also not recommended, because the fibers interfere with the opening mechanism and the arms no longer glide as well on the surface. \u003cbr\u003eThe model is successful printed with PETG - if you choose another filament, please make sure you use the right print settings due to possible material shrinkage. I recommend to do a little test print to maintain dimensional accuracy.\u003cbr\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cboostme\u003e\u003cboosttitle\u003eBoost Me\u003c\/boosttitle\u003e\u003cboostcontent\u003eIf you like my work, I would appreciate your boost very much! 🫶\u003c\/boostcontent\u003e\u003c\/boostme\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePRINT SETTINGS       \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #E14747\"\u003e\u003ci\u003eI'm only mentioning those that deviate from the standard settings\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOverall:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eAlways keep your print plate clean!\u003cbr\u003eFor the larger parts - if you encounter any warping - you can additionally add some painted custom mouse ears and\/or add some spray adhesive.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003eLayer height: 0.24 mm\u003cbr\u003eInitial layer height: 0.24 mm\u003cbr\u003eWall loops: 3\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eTop \u0026amp; Bottom shell layers: 4\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eSparse infill density: 10 %\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eSparse infill pattern: Cubic\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eInfill\/Wall overlap: 30 %\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eBrim type: Outer brim only\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eBrim-object gap: 0 mm\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDifferent settings for these objects\/plates\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #E14747\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePlate 1 + 2 + 3\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cfigure class=\"image image_resized image-style-side\" style=\"width: 76.72%\"\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/makerworld.bblmw.com\/makerworld\/model\/DSM00000002205021\/design\/2026-01-05_5048c30fc0ed3.png\"\u003e\u003c\/figure\u003e\u003cp\u003eEnable support: yes\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eStyle: Tree hybrid\u003cbr\u003eOn build plate only: yes\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eTop Z distance: 0.21\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #E14747\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePlate 10 + 11\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cfigure class=\"image image_resized image-style-side\" style=\"width: 64.25%\"\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/makerworld.bblmw.com\/makerworld\/model\/DSM00000002205021\/design\/2026-01-05_bac48166f095b.png\"\u003e\u003c\/figure\u003e\u003cp\u003eEnable support: yes\u003cbr\u003eType: normal (auto)\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eStyle: default\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eSupport\/raft interface: choose \u003cstrong\u003ePLA basic\u003c\/strong\u003e filament \u003cu\u003e(not PLA matte!)\u003c\/u\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eTop Z distance: 0 mm\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eBottom Z distance: 0 mm\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eBase pattern: Rectilinear\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eBase pattern spacing: 0 mm\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eInterface pattern: Rectilinear\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eTop interface spacing: 0 mm\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eSupport\/object xy distance: 0.4 mm\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e+ cange Speed settings for:\u003cbr\u003eSupport: 40 mm\/s\u003cbr\u003eSupport interface 40 mm\/s\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e+ raise the PLA print temperature a bit and also the bed temperature (to get a little closer to the PETG temperature settings).\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cu\u003eRemoving the supports from the recess of the frame:\u003c\/u\u003e\u003cbr\u003eUse a precision cutter (like the Wiha Z40112803SB Electronic Slim Side Cutter) to \"grab\" (not cut!) the PLA interface and pull it sideways out. Sometimes its kind of sticky and stuck in between. To get some room you can cut some support material between the PLA layers - this will help to get it out. It also can help to get with a razor blade between the support and object, just a short bit to loosen the PLA for a small length.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #E14747\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePlate 12\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cfigure class=\"image image_resized image-style-side\" style=\"width: 32.4%\"\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/makerworld.bblmw.com\/makerworld\/model\/DSM00000002205021\/design\/2026-01-05_1cb6eb81a114b8.png\"\u003e\u003c\/figure\u003e\u003cp\u003eWall loops: 6\u003cbr\u003eSparse infill density: 30 %\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eBrim type: painted mouse ears (automatic)\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eBrim-object gap: 0 mm\u003cbr\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #E14747\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePlate 13\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cfigure class=\"image image_resized image-style-side\" style=\"width: 32.49%\"\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/makerworld.bblmw.com\/makerworld\/model\/DSM00000002205021\/design\/2026-01-05_ad434b8540ea88.png\"\u003e\u003c\/figure\u003e\u003cp\u003eFor the left and right arm:\u003cbr\u003eEnable support: yes\u003cbr\u003eType: normal (auto)\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eSupport\/raft interface: choose \u003cstrong\u003ePLA basic\u003c\/strong\u003e filament (\u003cu\u003enot PLA matte!\u003c\/u\u003e)\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eTop Z distance: 0 mm\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eBase pattern: Rectilinear\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eBase pattern spacing: 0 mm\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eInterface pattern: Rectilinear\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eTop interface spacing: 0 mm\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eSupport\/object xy distance: 0.4 mm\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e+ cange Speed settings for:\u003cbr\u003eSupport: 100 mm\/s\u003cbr\u003eSupport interface 40 mm\/s\u003cbr\u003e+ raise the PLA print temperature a bit and also the bed temperature (to get a little closer to the PETG temperature settings).\u003cbr\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBILL OF MATERIALS\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFilament:\u003cbr\u003e~ 2,5 kg\u003cbr\u003eAcrylic glass:\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e1x acrylic glass with 3 mm thickness and 362 mm x 358 mm (its square, no rounded corners)\u003cbr\u003eScrews:\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eUse machine screws with a head like: pan, button, countersunk\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003ecap head might not work for the narrow spaces due to the height of the head\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e(thread length is specified):\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eRear panels: 6x M4, 8 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eTop cover to rear panel: 6x M4, 10 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eLid glass frame: 3x M4, 8 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFront clamp cover: 2x M4, 6 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAxis connection glass frame to lid: 2x M4, 30-35 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eBending arm mechanism to frame: 2x M4, 8 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eBending arm connection: 2x M4, 8 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGlass frame axis connection: 4x M3, 6 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eGlass frame joint connection: 2x M3, 12 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eFront handle: 2x M3, 12 mm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eASSEMBLING\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003col\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eAll wall sections are pushed together. Not every section can be inserted from all sides, but this shouldn't be a problem. If a section is inserted incorrectly, it can easily be pushed back out.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eScrew the back panels together:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg class=\"image_resized\" style=\"width: 78.01%\" src=\"https:\/\/makerworld.bblmw.com\/makerworld\/model\/DSM00000002205021\/design\/2026-01-05_7427ebf9046a58.jpg\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTake the top cover panels and the two small dowels and push them together (you can also glue them)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg class=\"image_resized\" style=\"width: 78.19%\" src=\"https:\/\/makerworld.bblmw.com\/makerworld\/model\/DSM00000002205021\/design\/2026-01-05_8f91490d526478.jpg\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eScrew the top cover panels and the back panels together\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg class=\"image_resized\" style=\"width: 78.26%\" src=\"https:\/\/makerworld.bblmw.com\/makerworld\/model\/DSM00000002205021\/design\/2026-01-05_e2250f8397e3e8.jpg\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eScrew the arm mechanism parts together and screw them into the mounting position. Screws from inwards. Pay attention to the left and right markings. The edge must point downwards so that the arm cannot slide too far towards the wall:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg class=\"image_resized\" style=\"width: 78.17%\" src=\"https:\/\/makerworld.bblmw.com\/makerworld\/model\/DSM00000002205021\/design\/2026-01-05_e01199dd1fab38.jpg\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eScrew in the front clamp cover (it holds both arms in sliding position):\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg class=\"image_resized\" style=\"width: 77.86%\" src=\"https:\/\/makerworld.bblmw.com\/makerworld\/model\/DSM00000002205021\/design\/2026-01-05_dee1ddb6fc73e.jpg\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eInsert the acrylic glass into the frame recess and screw the glassframe parts together:\u003cbr\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg class=\"image_resized\" style=\"width: 77.32%\" src=\"https:\/\/makerworld.bblmw.com\/makerworld\/model\/DSM00000002205021\/design\/b1c4f19b5394b99f.jpg\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eScrew in the front glassframe with the handle:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg class=\"image_resized\" style=\"width: 77.46%\" src=\"https:\/\/makerworld.bblmw.com\/makerworld\/model\/DSM00000002205021\/design\/2026-01-05_1b34e58c1bf24.jpg\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eScrew the glassframe and the axis connections:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg class=\"image_resized\" style=\"width: 77.41%\" src=\"https:\/\/makerworld.bblmw.com\/makerworld\/model\/DSM00000002205021\/design\/2026-01-05_dbdd6046f72db8.jpg\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eScrew the axis connection and the arms together. Screws from the outside. Pay attention to left and right, the text must point inwards. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #E14747\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCaution: Carefully tighten the screw until the arm is held in place - if you screw too quickly and the screw hits the arm, the axle may break.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg class=\"image_resized\" style=\"width: 77.3%\" src=\"https:\/\/makerworld.bblmw.com\/makerworld\/model\/DSM00000002205021\/design\/2026-01-05_a382c03d6b10d8.jpg\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eScrew the glassframe and the top cover together. Screws from the outside.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg class=\"image_resized\" style=\"width: 77.19%\" src=\"https:\/\/makerworld.bblmw.com\/makerworld\/model\/DSM00000002205021\/design\/2026-01-05_b41fe3af27443.jpg\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eNow you only need to insert from below the four feets and the small back covers - 1x for 6-pin in the middle and 2x on each side for the cable entrys.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ol\u003e\u003cp\u003eFINISHED!\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDesign by ShelbyCob on MakerWorld (license: BY-SA).\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Mymadmanlab","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":67383348527408,"sku":null,"price":310.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0987\/0809\/5280\/files\/0.publish_704b8f7d-1ad3-45d0-8459-7478203db619.jpg?v=1784503041","url":"https:\/\/mymadmanlab.com\/products\/snapmaker-u1-slant-flap-hinged-top-cover","provider":"Mymadmanlab.com","version":"1.0","type":"link"}